Thursday, February 9, 2012


I arrived in Niš exactly one month ago. In the past thirty-one days, I've had the chance to begin to get to know the city, and to settle into a fairly normal routine.

Southern Serbia is fairly different from Vojvodina, the autonomous province of which Novi Sad is the head. The differences between Novi Sad and Niš have two major origins: geography and history.

Vojvodina is flat. Take your stereotypical image of Kansas, replace the corn with other grains, and scale it down a bit and you've gota a fair picture of Vojvodina. (Vojvodinians will claim they have one or two mountains. This is true by loose definitions of mountains.)

Niš is surrounded by substantial mountains. If Novi Sad is Kansas, Niš is the Appalachian foothills. It started snowing on us during our first week here, and it hasn't let up more than a few days at a time. While my friends back in North Carolina have been enjoying 15°C weather, I've been dealing with -15°C.

Vojvodina was historically part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire while the area around Niš was under Ottoman rule for five hundred years. This affects not only the food (Hungarian goulash is common in Novi Sad while Niš is known for its roštilj [barbecue]) but also their attitudes towards Europe.

Jacob and me above the entrance to the Niš fortress. Photocredit: Yentli

Key to the history of each city is its fortress. Novi Sad sits across the Danube from the Austro-Hungarian era Petrovaradin Fortress, where the international music vestival Exit is held annually. Niš surrounds an old Turkish fortress that has its roots in the Roman era.

Above: Jacob and I complete a statue of a Roman woman. Jacob nails it.

Niš is fairly proud of its ancient history, being the birthplace of three Roman Emperors. But on our tours of the city in our first week here, we were focused on more recent history. Together we visited Ćele kula: the skull tower.

Far from being the super-villain lair that its name suggests, the tower is both monument and warning. The story's a great one, so I have to repeat it.

Entering the chapel that now protects the skull tower
It was the year 1809, five years after the beginning of the First Serbian Uprising against the rule of the Ottoman Turks (who I'm sure have another version of this story). A commander named Stevan Sinđelić was holding the line of the free Serbian state just north of the Turk-occupied Niš fortress. The five thousand Serbian men were able to hold off the twenty thousand Ottomans for a time, but not indefinitely. When they finally overran the trenches, Sinđelić went to the gunpowder storage and fired into the barrels. The explosion killed nearly all of both the rebels and the Turks, and hindered the progress of the Turkish army in putting down the uprising.

Furious, the Turkish commander ordered that a tower be built of the skulls of the rebels to serve as a warning to others. Over nine hundred skulls were originally used, though fewer than sixty remain in the tower now.

Some of the skulls still in the tower. The tower isn't that tall, but since the bricks are human skulls, it's tall enough to get its message across.

Me and the skull allegedly belonging to Sinđelić. It smells like incense (naturally, it's claimed).  Photocredit: Yentli
Of course, what was meant as a warning was eventually converted into a memorial. Instead of being afraid, Serbians now come to honor Sinđelić and his sacrifice.

While this gruesome tower has an inspiring story of self-sacrifice for a greater cause, our other stop was far more depressing. We visited the Crveni Krst concentration camp. (Somewhat ironically, Crveni Krst means Red Cross.)

Approaching the Crveni Krst concentration camp.
I'd never been to a concentration camp before, and I wasn't sure what to expect. Crveni Krst was no Auschwitz: genocide happened here, but not at quite the same scale as at the more infamous camps.

In ten days in April 1941, the then Kingdom of Yugoslavia fell to Axis forces. Almost immediately the Nazi occupation established concentration camps at various points around Yugoslavia where they imprisoned Jews, Roma, and various Yugoslav resistance fighters (generally Partisans).

Guards' quarters.
Over 30,000 people are thought to have spent time in the Crveni Krst camp. One of the exhibits in the dormitories is a list of over one hundred people who made a successful escape from the camp on February 12, 1942. This escape was one of the largest until liberation.

Entering the dormitories.

An illustration of the camp.
Over the course of the occupation, ten to twelve thousand prisoners were trucked to the forests of nearby Bubanj to be executed. We didn't make the trek out to the Bubanj memorial yet, though we will soon.

One of the cells. The guide said that over twenty people would be forced to live in one. 
One thing to note was that the interior of the building was even colder than the weather outside. It was as if the engineers hadn't been indifferent to comfort but actually trying to make the building miserable.

Exiting the concentration camp.
The Crveni Krst concentration camp is directly on the main road between my neighborhood and the rest of the city. Every day I get to see its remains, standing not only as a memorial to the multitude of victims of this horrible crime but also as a reminder of just how horrible humans can be to each other.

This post turned out to be a lot more about death than I had intended. I'll write more about being miserably cold and my day-to-day life soon. 

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

An Overdue Update

When I don't update this blog, it's not always because I'm lazy. Sometimes it's because I have things going on. (Usually it's both).

Since my last update, I've gone through a Slava, two Christmases, two New Year's Eves, and moved in with my second homestay family.

 A Slava is a family Saint-day. Each Serb family has one, even if they aren't practicing members of the Serbian Orthodox Church. During a family's Slava, the kids are officially excused from school and the parents from work. This time is meant to be spent with family-- essentially, a personalized mini-Thanksgiving. There are plenty of elaborate Slava ceremonies, but for their Slava of Sveti Nikola (Saint Nicholas) my host family kept it pretty plain with a small gathering at grandmother's apartment.. Before the meal, Ivan and his brother broke the special Slava bread, which was made with the four "C"s emblem baked into the top. We then proceeded to eat as much food as we could, but of course by the end there was still enough food for a second feast.

I got sick with some sort of stomach bug right before Christmas, so I missed our final Serbian classes in Novi Sad. Fortunately, I was mostly recovered by Christmas Eve, so I could enjoy yet another feast, this time at the other grandparents' flat.

I should take a minute and talk about Christmases. For those of us who aren't Serbian, Christmas always means December 25th. End of story.

Not so here. The Serbian Orthodox Church follows the Julian calendar, while civil society here, like the rest of the westernized world, follows the Gregorian calendar. The calendars are nearly identical in structure, but due to minor differences in the rule regarding leap years, the Julian calendar is now 13 days later than the Gregorian calendar. This means that Serbian Christmas falls on January 7th. Orthodox and ethnic Serb families generally celebrate only this Christmas.

My host mother's family isn't totally Serb though-- her father is Catholic. So, on December 24th and 25th, "regular" Christmas Eve and Day, he brought us over to celebrate. I also got to skype with my parents and my mom's side of the family in Texas, and despite the fact that we were 5800 miles away, we were still together for Christmas. I also received the greatest gift of all: Cheerwine. Back in North Carolina, I had about one can of the world's greatest soda per day, and I was greatly deprived. Fortunately, though the Cheerwine company doesn't really know where Serbia is, my dad was able to ship me some. I shared with my homestay family, and the taste lived up to my memories.

Carolina in my mind (and my glass)

The next week was my final week working for CZOR. Since it was getting to be the season of Slavas, Christmases, and New Year's Eves, things were mostly winding down. The volunteers had an end-of-the-year evaluation/party, and the next day the CZOR employees had a goodbye gathering for me. I already miss everyone there!

That week and the week following were filled with goodbyes. I met more wonderful people in Novi Sad than I had time to give proper goodbyes, but I know I'll be back briefly in June, if not earlier! Besides, someday I want to come back for Exit Festival.

For New Year's Eve, I went to the main square and listened to Zvonko Bogdan, a Vojvodinian folk musician, followed by Bajaga, a moderately famous rocker from the ex-Yu scene. The crowd was enormous-- there wasn't room to walk anywhere in the square, or in any of the roads feeding into it. At midnight, without any countdown or warning, fireworks went off from the town hall. For five or six minutes the air was continuously lit with an unbreaking stream of explosions, some of which got a little low for comfort.

While I'm talking about fireworks, I should take a moment and talk about firecrackers. I first heard petarde, as they're called in Serbian, around December 27th. Some kids were lighting them, tossing them into the park, and running away to watch the bang. People told me scare stories about kids who'd light them and put them in your hood, and I saw in the news that some Belgrade boy had seriously damaged his hand with a firecracker, but in my experience with petarde, they're mostly just surprising and annoying. The frequency of the petarde only increased until on New Year's Eve, you couldn't go more than a few minutes without hearing a pop from somewhere. Their usage decreased during the days between New Year's Day and Serbian Christmas, but they made a reprise around January 7th.

Serbian Christmas is a time to take your explosives seriously! Don't just take it from me-- here's a political cartoon from the newspaper Blic (Blitz, or Flash) from January 6th, Serbian Christmas Eve:

Woman 1: Are you going to some war again?
Woman 2: Or maybe to overthrow the government?
Man: Of course not! We're getting ready for Christmas.

[[Expanding more about Serbian Christmas later-- give me a little more time]]

On Monday morning, January 9th, after saying goodbye to all my Novosadski friends, and after a long night packing, I piled my luggage into a van and said goodbye to Dušan, Nikola, Sandra, and Ivan. Well, that's not quite accurate. We said "vidimo se," meaning "we'll see each other." As excited as I am for Niš, I already miss the Lukić family, and can't wait to see them again in June.

All of us exhausted, BYPNovi Sad anymore-- right now, Vojvodina has neither hills nor snow.

I'll update this post later with pictures and a description of Serbian Christmas. Afterwards I'll give some impressions of Niš, my new family, and my new work.